RIVIERA FRIULANA: RISTORANTE AI TRE CANAI A MARANO LAGUNARE A CAVALLO TRA LA TERRAFERMA E IL MARE
Il Ristorante Ai Tre Canai di Marano Lagunare
Poco prima d’arrivare nel cuore di Marano Lagunare, la città friulana della pesca, ma di parlata veneta, si incontra il ristorante Ai tre canai, di Giorgio Dal Forno e Claudia Zorzin.
Si trova nei pressi dell’antico margine delle mura della città fortificata di origine romana, al confine tra la cultura culiaria del mare e della laguna, e quella enogastronomica della terraferma. Si può sintetizzare così l’impegno sviluppato negli ultimi anni dallo chef Dal Forno, che è maranese, figlio di pescatori e di famiglia di lunga tradizione marinara. Il quale, dopo anche un passato agonistico d’eccellenza nello sport del mare. ha pensato di dedicarsi alla cucina. Riscoprendo e rispolverando le antiche tradizioni della tavola, ma anche dell’alimentazione valliva e dei casoni da pesca. Tra le pietanze di alto pregio l’anguilla allo spiedo (‘bisato in speo’), cotta anche per tre quattro ore calor della brace senza altri ingredienti se non le essenze del legno dello spiedo, sale grosso e alloro. Pietanza che Dal Forno ha stimolato a recuperare a livello di piatto simbolo di Marano, tanto da farne una confraternita: la Compagnia del bisato. Ai tre canai è un locale caldo e accogliente, che prende il nome da un trivio acqueo caratteristico di quell’ambiente lagunare dal quale lo chef ricava non soltanto pesce, molluschi, crostacei per la cucina, ma anche alghe e piante aromatiche, riscoprendone la valenza in accostamenti che sono la sintesi della contaminazione tra la cucina di mare e di terra, e di altre realtà italiane ed estere. Specializzato nelle cruditée di pesce, propone primi da ricette antiche come il passato di ghiozzo. E antipasti e secondi che seguono fedelmente la stagionalità della pesca e delle materie prime della cucina. Ma anche la cucina tradizionale. Cura molto la sperimentazione negli accostamenti che sono accattivanti. Così come gli abbinamenti con i grandi vini del Friuli Venezia Giulia e non solo.
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